Our host in Nablus was Sammi Hammad, an engineer who in 2005 founded Nablus the Culture, a foundation for the promotion and re-establishment of culture in Nablus. The foundation also offers music lessons to young Nablusis in collaboration with the Barenboim-Said Foundation.

Sami Hammad (right), with John Harte (director of the Choir of London, left). "You can see from the shrapnel marks on the walls that there was a big cluster bomb here, one of the ones with nails that explode in every direction and kill many bodies instantly. They use them here from time to time"

Although the organization receives a certain amount of support from organizations such as Music Fund Belgium (donations of musical instruments), the Barenboim-Said Foundation (teaching and performance opportunities) and other indirect help from partners like Choir of London, it's a very very difficult thing to run. For a start, Nablus is one of the most isolated and persecuted of all the Palestinian cities, and access is extremely hazardous and unreliable.

Choir of London people crossing the notorius al-Hawara checkpoint into Nablus

Aside from the nightly raids and frequent incursions that terrorize the city inhabitants, there's always a difficulty running a cultural institution in a time of conflict, because day to day survival takes a higher priority than long term culture-building. But so long as there isn't an education for children, then there isn't a future for a society. And if there isn't music education, it's even more severe – for an explanation why, I refer you back to my argument about the importance of music education in a globalized society.

View of Nablus

This means that for forward-thinkers like Sami, there's no question that this has to be done, but every single small development is a battle; a struggle against lack of funds, lack of support, and the immediate situation. Over lunch, I asked him whether he is at all optimistic about the future:

"Politically, I am not optimistic. I do not have much hope. What can you do when there are these raids? Every bloody night, they come. There will not be peace for a very long time."

But what keeps him going? What drives him to get up in the morning and at least attempt to bring to this troubled territory some of the educational opportunities that most of the world takes for granted?

"The future of my children depends on it. I do this not for my generation – it is too late – but for future generations. The problem is, that the Israelis destroy our culture and heritage. But it is culture and heritage that makes a community what it is. That is why they bombed the soap factories [Nablus is historically famous for its soap factories, and there's a gaping hole in the centre of town where there was once a thriving cafe/arts centre within a renovated factory]. They want to destroy our identity. We have to keep the culture of Nablus and Palestine alive. That is why I try to do what I do."

Although Sami speaks about his own children – three very good young musicians who are students at Nablus The Culture – his focus is more on the children of Nablus as a whole.

"In a way, I consider them all my children. I do for them what I can, and hope that one day perhaps things will change."

Workshop with Douglas Metcalf (right, clarinet professor of the Barenboim-Said Foundation) and his clarinet students

In the afternoon, we played with some of Douglas' clarinet students. Although one or two of the older musicians have played in the Said Conservatory's Palestine Youth Orchestra, for most of the students, it is the first time they have played with professional musicians other than their teachers.
Afterwards, Sami takes us on a walking tour of the old city. Not a tourist tour of course – they don't have tourists in Nablus! – but more a guided exploration of the city's main bomb sites, martyr celebraton posters, and destroyed points of cultural interest!! (Be aware that this post is fully illustrative of a Palestinian view. Don't expect me to show both sides of the argument today!)

Martyrs' wall of commemoration…

A main shopping street in Nablus

A former Nablus Soap factory. Nablus is famed for its soap, but many factories have now been destroyed by the Israelis, or closed down. This factory is being renovated for use as a childrens' arts and crafts centre, but was previously used by the Nablus the Culture organization for music lessons, before they moved into their new building.

An extreeeemely syrupy sugary snack – a Palestinian speciality!

A row of taxis waits to take the Choir of London to the evening concert

Like in Ramallah, the best form of resistance is again rearing its head in resilience. If there's nothing you can do to change the situation you are faced with, the best you can do is to contribute to change from within, by keeping on keeping on with small individual contributions; speaking with your actions. Sami Hammad and Nablus The Culture are doing the best they can do.